Equipment for a Beginning Student of Italian Rapier
by Steven Reich

Many times an aspiring student is unsure of what equipment is necessary for the study of the Italian rapier. In fact, a student might not even be sure exactly what qualities determine whether or not a sword is a rapier. This is not a simple question and it is still debated within the Western Martial Arts Community. This article is concerned only with the weapons and equipment necessary to study the weapon as depicted in the plates and techniques of Salvator Fabris and his Italian contemporaries (such as Ridolfo Capoferro and Francesco Alfieri).

The Rapier

When selecting a weapon to use for drilling and bouting, it is important to consider the design of the hilt, the characteristics of the blade, and the weapon as a whole. While there is debate over what constitutes a rapier as opposed to a sidesword or a transitional rapier (especially since the term rapier is not used by Fabris or any of his Italian contemporaries), this article specifically covers the sword as depicted by illustrations in the treatise of Fabris. As such, the characteristics of the hilt and the blade can be determined to a reasonable degree.

Rapiers from Darkwood Armory

Historically, rapier hilts came in many styles, so the prospective student is left with a wide choice of accurate designs. Swept hilts, ring hilts, and pappenheimer-style hilts were all popular in the early 17th century, as were several other styles. Included in the choice of hilt style is the question of straight or curved quillons. Either will work well, and the choice is left to the personal preference of the student. However, it is important that both the true-edge and the false-edge quillon are present on the hilt. Using a rapiers without both quillons will add an unnecessary challenge to the student practicing techniques. Certainly such hilts existed, but I believe it is worth nothing that all of the swords depicted in the manual of Fabris have both quillons.

The rapier manuals of Alfieri and Capoferro discuss the length of the blade in proportion to the wielder: two arms' lengths, or the distance between the feet when lunging; or enough that it can stand comfortably under the swordsman's underarm. While it is not practical for most fencers to order a blade of an exact custom length, a blade with a length between forty and forty-two inches will be very close to the ideal measurement for an individual of normal stature (note that the length is measured from the quillon-block to the tip of the blade). Since the cut is occasionally utilized as a technique in Italian rapier, the blade should have two distinct edges. Historically, longer and shorter rapier blades, and blades without cutting capability existed, but I am referring to the rapier as depicted in the manuals of Fabris and his Italian contemporaries.

Fencing with a Steel Rod There are members of the Western Martial Arts Community who complain about the lack of stiffness of practice blades, implying that any flexibility in a blade hinders proper technique. While I agree that a practice blade needs to be stiff enough that its vibrations from its flexibility do not interfere with a student’s techniques, I have never experienced that problem with any of the Del Tin Practice Rapier Blades. In fact, I have never seen the flexibility of a practice blade interfere with the execution of a single historical technique of the Italian Rapier. Even a Schläger blade (certainly a less than ideal choice for a blade) will allow for the correct execution of the techniques of the Italian Rapier. A blade with the characteristics of a rigid steel rod does not make it more effective; it is not necessary to fence with a weapon that is painful or potentially dangerous to one's opponent.

The new rapier student looking for a practice weapon is fortunate in that in the last few years, a wide variety of options have become available. Serviceable rapiers are available for as low as one-hundred fifty dollars, with very good models available for around three-hundred dollars. While these reproductions will not have quite the feel of an historic original, they will allow the student to accurately reproduce all of the historic techniques described in the manuals. We have found one maker Darkwood Armory offers weapons that are an excellent combination of accuracy, aesthetics and price. A typical "off-the-shelf" rapier from them will cost around three-hundred dollars, with a hand-made hilt, grip and pommel, and a Del Tin Practice Rapier Blade. We use these rapiers almost exclusively for our training and find them to be excellent weapons.

A quick search of sword manufacturers and retailers will produce a selection of acceptable reproductions that conform to the above guidelines, but it is important to follow a few rules when selecting one. First, the blade of the weapon must be designed for drilling and sparring. Some reproductions come with sharp blades, and even if the tip and edge are ground off, the blade might not be flexible or durable enough to withstand repeated contact. Blades used for training and bouting will endure as much punishment as a foil or epee blade and need to be manufactured for this purpose. I also recommend against using Schläger blades, as they are tip heavy and tend to feel "wobbly." The quality of reproduction blades has reached a point where settling for a Schläger blade is unnecessary (they are safe, but not ideal). For those students who want a stiffer blade, I recommend a rapier equipped with the Del Tin Bated Rapier Blade, it will have a feel similar to lighter historic rapier blade. Finally, the tip should be foiled with a blunt (we use archery bird blunts) as even the more flexible rapier blades will impart a significant amount of force when used in a thrust.

When all of the choices are made, the result should be a substantial weapon with a compound hilt and a long blade (between forty and forty-two inches) that will withstand the rigors of heavy use. The blade will flexible and durable enough to be safely utilized in drilling and full-speed, full-contact bouting, and the weapon will handle in a manner similar to an historic rapier.

The Dagger

A serious student of the rapier will certainly want to learn how to use the combination of sword and dagger as this was a common combination covered in most of the historic treatises. I recommend that a new student start by learning the sword alone first, but it is often worth purchasing a dagger at the same time as the rapier is purchased.

Rapier Wasters A cheap alternative to a reproduction rapier is available to the student in the form of a wooden rapier waster. These are available in correct lengths, but the weight is significantly lighter than a historic rapier. Unless budgetary constraints make the purchase of a reproduction impossible, I would strongly advise a student to avoid these and spend the extra money on a reproduction. The handling characteristics of a wooden waster are different from that of a steel reproduction. Furthermore, full-speed bouting with a rigid wooden waster could be somewhat dangerous, as a properly executed lunge will transfer a significant amount of force along the inflexible wooden blade.

Like a rapier, a dagger should have both quillons, but also a ring or a shell mounted perpendicular to the quillons to protect the back of the hand when parrying the opponent’s blade. The blade should probably not be longer than fourteen inches and possibly shorter for someone of smaller stature, although probably not shorter than eleven or twelve inches (like the rapier, the length of the blade on a dagger is measured from the hilt to the tip of the blade).

In the manuals of Fabris and Alfieri, the dagger is never used as the principal attack weapon in techniques of sword and dagger (and even the manual of Capoferro only devotes two plates to attacking with the dagger). Because of this, I do not feel that it is important for the blade be flexible (although it should never be even remotely sharp), as a student will generally not make it a part of his usual offensive repertoire (Note, however, that the rules of many rapier tournaments forbid a competitor from using a dagger that is not mounted with a flexi-blade). Using a non-flexible blade for the dagger does impart a responsibility on the part of its user to ensure that he does not use it in a way that could result in an injury to his opponent, and those students who utilize it as a primary offensive weapon are advised to use a flexi-blade and strictest control.

Darkwood Armory offers a good selection of daggers (most notably the Ring Dagger and the Pierced Plate Dagger). Del Tin also has very serviceable selection of daggers (the Early 17th Century Main Gauche and the Late 16th Century Main Gauche). Darkwood offers flex-blades, but Del Tin does not (and it is important to ensure that any dagger purchased is not sharpened). A dagger from Darkwood Armory will cost from one-hundred twenty-five dollars and higher, a Del Tin dagger will cost around two-hundred dollars.

Safety Equipment & Clothing

Finally, a new student will need to obtain a few pieces of protective equipment and clothing for safety and comfort:

Mask: The student should buy a fencing mask that fits and is comfortable, and I recommend a mask with the highest puncture resistance available. A well-built fencing mask will cost one-hundred to one-hundred forty dollars, but will last for years of use if properly maintained.

Chest Protector/Breast Cups: Women should wear either a fencer’s female chest guard or a set of chest plates. Chest protectors are also available for men although the decision on whether or not to wear one is one of pain tolerance rather than preventing injury.

Groin Protection: Men involved in bouting should wear an athletic cup or other groin protection. For women, this is an optional piece of equipment that might be worth considering.

Gloves: Students should obtain a set of leather gloves. Sabre-style fencing gloves are adequate, as are "renaissance-type" leather gloves. Two gloves are needed as the hand not wielding the rapier might be used to parry or wield a dagger.

Tunic: The student should have a protective tunic designed for fencing or historic swordplay. I use the double-layer SCA Fighting Tunic available from Triplette Competition Arms, however, a 3-weapon sport fencing tunic is also acceptable.

Gorget: I advise new students to acquire a leather gorget. While I use do not wear one when bouting with other practitioners who I trust to have control, I will wear it when sparring with unfamiliar opponents or opponents who I know to be especially aggressive or wild.

Pants: A comfortable pair of pants that will withstand the rigors of bouting are necessary. Anything worn for fencing will work, as will sweatpants or sturdy, knee-length shorts, or even a pair of sturdy pants from a Karate or Tae Kwon Do uniform.

Shoes: While shoes are not strictly necessary (except under the rules of some rapier tournaments), if shoes are worn, they should either have the characteristics of fencing shoes or renaissance footwear.

Resources

For an exhaustive resource detailing nearly every historic style of rapier hilt, see The Rapier and Smallsword, 1460-1820 by A.V.B. Norman.

The standard selection of hilt designs available from Darkwood Armory can be viewed at Darkwood Armory